2. Remove the sprocket and key from the crankshaft (if the last one falls).
3. Remove the pallet (see section 13).
4. To turn out bolts and to remove the case of a forward epiploon. Remove gasket.
5. Unscrew the 3 bolts securing the oil pump to the crankcase, remembering their position, because all three have different lengths.
6. Pull out from under the oil pump the spacer, which has the shape of a corner.
7. Remove the dowel pin. Remove the chain from the pump sprocket. Remove pump.
8. Remove the chain and sprocket from the crankshaft toe. Remove the segment key if it falls out.
9. Remove the b bolts holding the halves of the oil pump together. Disconnect halves (be prepared for what may "jump out" pressure relief valve spring and plunger) (see pictures).
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10. If necessary, remove the strainer by prying off the cover. Clear all details (see pictures).
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11. Inspect gears and pump housing for wear and damage. Check the axial clearance of the gears using a ruler and feeler gauges. Check the axial clearance between the gear and the pump housing (see pictures). If one of these clearances exceeds the allowable limits, the pump must be replaced. Please note that with the exception of the spring and the relief valve plunger, no other spare parts for the pump are available for sale.
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12. If the pump is to be replaced, it is recommended that the chain and sprocket on the crankshaft be replaced as well.
13. Lubricate the gears with engine oil and assemble the pump in the reverse order of its disassembly. Tighten the bolts evenly to the correct torque.
14. Install a segment key and an asterisk on the crankshaft toe (side with teeth inside). Put the chain on the sprocket.
15. Pull the front oil seal out of its housing. Install the housing on the cylinder block with a new gasket and evenly tighten its bolts to the desired torque.
16. Install a new oil seal in the housing (see section 12).
17. Check that the dowel pin is on the block. Slide the chain over the sprocket and fit the angle spacer in place, making sure it rests with its open end on the pin.
18. Insert the bolts in their original places (see d/fig. 1.13) (the longest bolt should go through the dowel pin and the second longest should be next to the oil return port. Tighten the bolts evenly to the correct torque (see photo).
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19. Install the pallet (see section 13).
20. Install the key and timing sprocket.
21. Install timing belt (see section 4).
Oil pump (latest models) - removal and installation
1. From April 1987, the oil pump is installed without spacer and dowel pin. In order to compensate for the lack of a gasket, the pump is increased in height.
2. The new pump can be installed in place of the old one by removing the gasket and dowel pin of the old pump. Thicker washers should be installed under the oil pump bolt heads (part N 6962.28).
3. On XUD7T engines, a thin spacer is still installed between the cylinder block and the oil pump.