Engine cranks but won't start
2. If the engine does not start and everything was fine the last time you used the car, you should first check if there is fuel in the tank. If the engine cranks normally and the battery is well charged, then the problem is most likely in the high or low voltage circuit. Check the high voltage circuit first.
3. One of the common causes of problems with starting the engine is damp ignition wires and distributor cap. Remove distributor cover. If there are traces of moisture inside it, wipe the cover and wires dry. For a one-time elimination of the problem, you can spray a little Holts Wet Start on the wires and the inside surface of the distributor cover. As a preventative measure, Holts Damp Start can be used from time to time to form a protective coating that prevents moisture from accumulating in the ignition system. Holts Cold Start will help start the engine even with a very poor spark. When finished, reinstall the distributor cap.
4. If after that the engine does not start, check if the current is supplied to the candles. To do this, in turn, disconnect the wire from each candle and, holding it (gloved hand or tool with insulated handles) at a distance of 5 mm from the cylinder block, crank the engine with a starter.
5. A strong spark with a regular blue spark should be observed between the end of the wire and the block. If you make sure that the current reaches all the candles, you should remove them, clean and adjust the gaps. After that, the engine should start.
6. If the current does not reach the candles, disconnect the high voltage wire from the central terminal on the cover of the distributor and bring it to the cylinder block, as before. Turn the engine over with the starter. A quick succession of blue sparks between the end of the wire and the block indicates that the ignition coil is good, and the problem lies in a cracked distributor cover, a malfunctioning runner, or a lack of good contact between "coal" on the cover of the distributor and the spring on the slider.
7. If there is no spark between the end of the wire and the block, check its connection to the coil. If OK, proceed to low voltage circuit test. It is possible that the breaker contacts are in bad condition. Clean the contacts and adjust the gap between them, as indicated in section 2. If sparking does not appear after this, proceed to the next checks.
8. Use a 12V voltmeter or test lamp. With the ignition on and contacts open, check for voltage between the low voltage wire going to the coil (tagged "+"), And "earth". Lack of voltage indicates a break in the power wire coming from the ignition switch. Inspect the contacts on the switch to make sure none of the wires have come loose. Reconnect the wires, and then the engine should start. If the voltmeter or lamp shows voltage, the coil or capacitor is faulty, or there is a break in the wire between the coil and the distributor.
9. Disconnect the capacitor wire from the breaker contacts and, with the contacts open, check the voltage between the moving contact and "earth". If voltage is present, the fault lies in the capacitor. Replace the capacitor and the car should start.
10. In the absence of voltage between the moving contact and "earth" measure the voltage between "earth" and terminal (-) on the coil. In the presence of voltage, there is a break in the wiring between the coil and the distributor. The absence of voltage confirms that the coil is defective and must be replaced, after which the engine should start. Don't forget to reinstall the capacitor wire. When testing, it is enough to insert a piece of paper between the contacts in order to keep them open.
Engine skips flash
11. If the flash is skipped regularly, start the engine at fast idle. Remove the spark plug caps one at a time, listening to the engine noise. (The cap should be held with a rubber-gloved hand or through a dry cloth so as not to receive an electric shock).
12. When removing the cap from a non-working candle, the engine noise will not change, in other cases the gap will increase.
13. Disconnect the wire from the idle spark plug and holding its end 5 mm from the cylinder block, start the engine again. With strong regular sparking, the problem lies in the spark plug.
14. The spark plug may become loose, its insulator may be cracked, or the electrodes may be burned so that the gap between them becomes too large for a spark to jump. In the worst case, one of the electrodes may break off. Depending on the situation, replace the spark plug or clean it and adjust the spark gap. Repeat the check again.
15. If there is no spark between the block and the end of the wire, or if there is poor irregular spark, check the ignition wire. If its insulation is cracked or worn, the wire should be replaced. Check the wire connection to the distributor cap.
16. If after that the spark does not appear, inspect the cover of the distributor for tracking marks (very thin black lines running between the electrodes or between the electrodes and other parts of the lid. Through these lines, the current passes over the surface of the cover to ground). If traces of tracking are found, the only way out is to replace the cover.
17. In addition to the wrong ignition timing, misfire can be caused by other reasons:
- A. Coil failure (irregular flash skip)
- b. Damaged wire or poor contact in the low voltage circuit
- V. Failed Capacitor (the capacitor is broken)
- d. Mechanical failure of the distributor (damaged roller or broken contact breaker spring)
18. If the ignition is too late, the engine will tend to overheat and its power will noticeably decrease. If the engine overheats and does not run at full power, and the ignition timing is set correctly, the condition and adjustment of the carburetor should be checked.